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  • [The Truth About Matcha] "What is the cultivar?" The Biggest Misconception Among Matcha Enthusiast
抹茶の真実味を決める最大の要素

[The Truth About Matcha] “What variety is it?”
The biggest factor that determines the taste and one that many matcha enthusiasts overseas misunderstand

Recently, we’ve been receiving a specific question from our international customers through social media and at our physical store:

"Could you tell me the cultivar of this matcha?"

To be completely honest with you, I am getting a little tired of hearing it. I can't help but wonder: what do people actually think they understand just by knowing the name of a cultivar?

Just as wine lovers care about grape varieties and coffee lovers care about bean origins, an increasing number of overseas Matcha Connoisseurs and Matcha Geeks are focusing on specific cultivars like Samidori or Asahi.

As a matcha professional, I deeply respect this passion and curiosity. However, allow me to be brutally honest:

Trying to imagine the taste of matcha based solely on its "cultivar" is a massive misconception.

Why? Because the true flavor and quality of matcha are determined not by the cultivar itself, but by its "Terroir" where and how it was grown.

The Japanese Rice Analogy Let’s use Japanese rice as an example. The most famous and delicious rice cultivar in Japan is Koshihikari. However, planting Koshihikari seeds anywhere in Japan does not guarantee the same ultimate taste.

 

抹茶イラストWhy is Koshihikari from Niigata Prefecture considered the absolute best?

新潟とコシヒカリ

Because Niigata possesses the perfect "terroir" for rice farming: extreme temperature differences between day and night, mineral-rich snowmelt water flowing from the mountains, and highly fertile clay soil. If you plant the exact same Koshihikari cultivar in another region, it will never replicate the profound taste of Niigata’s rice.

Matcha is Exactly the Same

The same principle applies to Tencha (the raw material for matcha). Take Samidori, a premium matcha cultivar known for its vibrant green color, lack of bitterness, and strong umami.

Samidori tea plant grown on the fertile, perfectly hydrated sandy banks of the Kizugawa River will develop a powerful, rich umami. On the other hand, the exact same Samidori cultivar grown in foggy, mountainous areas with less sunlight will develop a completely different quality of umami and aroma.

 

抹茶イラストThe robust umami and rich body of tea leaves grown by the sea.

さみどり

Even if they share the same "Samidori" label, if the fields are different, they are entirely different ingredients.Furthermore, even within the exact same field, young trees yield leaves packed with sharp umami, while mature, older trees produce a deep mellowness.
Then comes the fertilizer, which dictates the "vitality" of the tea.

This is somewhat intuitive and hard to explain, but tea grown with restrained fertilizer lacks power. Think of the difference between a majestically blooming, vibrant rose and a weak, fragile one. That same difference in beauty exists in the taste of tea when you drink it.

Let me give you a specific example. Two of the prestigious Uji matcha brands we carry are:

Shogyokuen and Tsujiki both use the Samidori cultivar. However, their fields are different, and the type and amount of fertilizer they use are different. Geographically, Shogyokuen is in Kizugawa City and Tsujiki is in Uji City about 15 km apart. Because of this, even though they are both Samidori, they do not taste exactly the same.

In our store, overseas customers often ask me, "I want Samidori," or "What cultivar is this?" But I honestly do not believe that question leads them to truly delicious matcha.

This trend likely started when some influential Matcha Geek claimed, "This cultivar is the best," and it spiraled from there. No matter how much we, the actual professionals, try to correct this narrative, it feels impossible to win against the viral spread of global social media.

 

抹茶イラストTrue Matcha is a Harmony of "Nature" and the "Tea Master's Art"

This is precisely why historic Kyoto and Uji tea houses (like Shogyokuen, Tsujiki, and Yoshida Meicha-en) never rely solely on a single cultivar or a single tea field.

"This year's riverbank Samidori has great umami, so let's use it as the base."
"Let's add a touch of Asahi for aroma to perfect the balance."

Our tea masters carefully assess the unique characteristics of each tea leaf, shaped by its terroir, and blend them using secret ratios passed down through generations ? a traditional technique called "Gogumi" (合組). This is how they achieve a consistent, refined flavor year after year.

 

To all matcha lovers around the world:

The next time you choose a premium Japanese matcha, please step away from the question, "What is the cultivar?"

Imagine the beautiful riversides and the foggy mountains where those leaves were nurtured. When you reflect on the "Terroir," your matcha experience will become infinitely deeper and richer. The complex umami created by the tea farmers and wholesalers through the art of Gogumi is what truly satisfies our palates.

To Summarize...

We do not sell the kind of shallow matcha that can be defined merely by a cultivar name. We sell the profound history of authentic Terroir and Gogumi. That is our pride.

...Having said all that, when a customer travels all the way to our physical store, I certainly don't want to hurt their pride. So the reality is, I usually just flash my best "sales smile" and politely answer their questions about cultivars.

But I truly hope this article reaches as many Matcha Enthusiasts as possible, and maybe, just maybe, these inquiries will start to decrease!

 

抹茶イラストRecommended Matcha for Tea Ceremony

If you're looking to truly experience authentic matcha shaped by terroir and craftsmanship, these are two selections we confidently recommend.

Uji Matcha babamukashi

Babamukashi

Kanbayashi Shunsho

Smooth, elegant umami with a refined finish ? ideal for traditional tea ceremony.

View Product →
100g / JPY14,472
Uji Matcha TOYOMUKASHI

Imamukashi

Shogyokuen

Rich body with deep umami and lasting aroma ? a well-balanced premium blend.

View Product →
100g / JPY8,586
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